Posts By nikko


Changing pocket watch crystal is a pretty straight forward and easy job to do. However, the difficult part is fitting the right crystal to your watch. Unless you have various crystals of different sizes, it is very easy to purchase the wrong size for the first time. That is why watchmakers charge more than the actual crystal cost. Besides the labor, they also need to invest on those watch crystal inventories.



Before you even start looking for the right crystal, you need to measure the size of your watch bezel. First, you need to know the size of your watch bezel opening, which is the distance B (black) indicated in the diagram. If the crystal is too big, it will not be able to pass through the bezel opening. It is also useful to know the size of your crystal seat opening, which is the distance A (red) indicated in the diagram. Make sure the crystal you choose is larger than A. Although you can still glue it onto the bezel if the crystal is smaller than A, the gap between the bezel opening edge and the crystal will be too wide and become noticeable. Ideally, you would choose a crystal size that is slightly larger than the bezel opening (illustrated as distance C (blue) in the diagram), and you can use a hairdryer to heat up the bezel to widen the bezel opening temporally for installation.

The following chart is useful for converting between Ligne and metric crystal sizes.



After knowing the diameter of the crystal, you should also make sure the height of the crystal suits your watch type. Usually, hunter pocket watch crystals are flatter than open-face ones. If you buy an open-face pocket watch crystal for your hunter pocket watch, the tall crystal may prevent you from closing the lid. If you buy a hunter pocket watch crystal for your open-face pocket watch, the flat crystal may prevent the watch hands from moving because the crystal actually touches the watch hand (the part D of the diagram). Usually the seller will indicate the type of crystal he is selling. However, you will never know if it fits your watch until you actually try it. As you can see, the size difference can be as tiny as 0.1mm.

Another thing you need to consider is the material of crystal. Glass offers more clarity and scratch resistance, but it is more fragile than plastic ones. If you have a hunter pocket watch, you can consider a glass crystal because it will be protected by the lid. If you have an open-face pocket watch, plastic might be a better choice if you wear your watch often. Even if you do not drop the watch, glass crystal will still crack if you press on the surface hard enough (e.g. accidentally sitting on the watch).

Now, let's see how pocket watch crystal replacement is done.

First, measure the diameter of the watch bezel opening.



In this case, the diameter is about 44.31mm. From the previous chart, we know that a 44.3mm crystal will definitely be able to pass through the bezel opening. However, for the best fit, we choose a slightly larger one: 44.4mm (19 10/16) crystal.



Here, we use UV glue. Although UV glue is not as strong as other types of glues (e.g. rocket glue), it is clear, easy to clean and allows you infinite amount of time to work with. We will use syringe needle tip to apply the glue.



Before installation, we need to clean the watch bezel. Depends on the type of glue used previously, you can choose different types of cleaner. Here, we just use alcohol. If the bezel cannot be removed from the watch, make sure you use a piece of paper to cover the watch dial for protection. Use the syringe tip to remove any remaining glue residue.




If the crystal you choose is slightly larger than the bezel opening, you will need to use a hairdryer to heat up the watch bezel first. While the bezel is hot, the crystal should be able to fit into the bezel and sit on the crystal seat opening. If the crystal can fit onto the crystal seat directly, you can just start applying UV glue along the crystal edge using the syringe needle tip. Use cotton swabs to remove any excess glue.

Once you are satisfy with the result, you can put the watch under direct sunlight and wait for the UV glue to cure. The process usually takes about 10 to 15 minutes but will be longer if it is cloudy.



Now, you can enjoy the watch with a new crystal after the UV glue is cured. Please note that the crystal edge should be free from any glue residue.

在現今幾乎是人手一台智慧型手機的情況下,拍照已經是一件非常容易的事。但是,筆者還是時常在逛論壇的時候看到不少被照得很模糊的照片。最令發文者與閱讀者沮喪的莫過於嘗試自模糊的照片中辨認手錶的細節。當然,當擁有適當的打光器材以及不錯的相機,其實要照出模糊的照片反而是更困難的事情,但是不是每一個人都能擁有那樣的器材。幸運的是,其實你用智慧型手機就有可能照出媲美攝影棚品質的相片。筆者在這邊就分享一些小技巧,讓各位也能用智慧型手機幫自己的手錶照出漂亮、清晰的照片,並可以自豪地展示給其他人。

目標很簡單,就是:幫你的手錶照出不經任何後製(例如使用Photoshop或是其他軟體來修圖)、直接就可以上傳使用的照片。你所需要的就是一台智慧型手機,當然還有你的錶。

照相最重要的就是光線。筆者甚至可以大膽地說:攝影其實就是對光線的控制。如果你要有一張清晰的照片,你首先要確定的就是你的主體能被足夠的光線照到。足夠的光不但可以讓相機能捕捉到更多細微的細節,也可以減低快門時間(所以減低手震的機率)。有些人會推薦閃光燈,不過那需要一些時間學習才能上手。筆者給業餘者的建議是:陽光是你最好的朋友。陽光是一個強烈卻不需要額外散光設備的光源,最棒的是,它是免費的。你可以選個晴天,然後開始在不同的時間點試驗來找到你要的感覺與結果。請注意,照相的時候最好避免讓自己的影子打到你所要攝影的主體上,或是讓強光直接反射進你的相機鏡頭。以個人習慣而言,筆者通常會避免在中午拍照,因為在照俯視圖的時候,很難避開自己的影子。



在取得光源之後,第二件要搞定的就是你的智慧型手機。一般人在拍局部特寫最常犯的錯誤就是照相的時候,把手機靠得主體太近。這當然是可以理解的,因為人們傾向把畫面用主體填滿,而不是留下大量的空白背景。但是一般智慧型手機通常都有個最短對焦距離,這距離通常比你想像的來得長。當然你可以靠後製把多餘的背景給剪裁掉,但是這已經超出本文所要討論的範圍。



如果你的智慧型手機有近拍模式(通常是一個小花圖示),請開啟它。如果沒有,也沒關係。先將你的手機往後移動,直到你的手機能夠正確地將畫面正中央的物體對焦(通常會有一個綠色框顯示)。一旦對好焦之後,用兩隻手指在觸控螢幕上分開(或是用拉近按鈕,比如說音量增強鈕,如果你手機有的話)來將整個主體拉近。你將會發現你要攝影的主體能在不失焦的情況下被放大。當你對於構圖跟對焦都感到滿意時,再按下快門鍵。不同的守機會有不同的設定,但是大致上都一樣。你可以嘗試使用不同的設定(比如說HDR)來取得更佳的效果。

如果你想嘗試用其他軟體進行後製的話,請用最大的像素設定來得到更好的後製成果。如果你只是要直接上傳圖片的話,你可以選擇中等的像素設定來得到更快的上傳速度。

現在,讓我們來總結一下重點。
1. 挑一個晴天。不要把自己的影子蓋到主體,或是讓光線直接反射進入相機鏡頭。
2. 不要把智慧型手機靠得離主體太近。在將畫面拉近之前,請先確定相機已經對到焦。
3. 選擇適當的輸出像素。如果你要直接將圖片上傳到網路上,嘗試透過像素設定來將影像大小控制在1MB左右。
4. Good luck, have fun!

下面的圖片都是使用零售價一百五十美元以下的入門級智慧型手機所拍的。所有的照片都是使用內建的相機功能,並無任何後製(也就是照完自手機直接上傳)。


Sony Xperia L C2105





小米 紅米 Note 3G




在现今几乎是人手一台智能手机的情况下,拍照已经是一件非常容易的事。但是,笔者还是时常在逛论坛的时候看到不少被照得很模煳的照片。最令发文者与阅读者沮丧的莫过于尝试自模煳的照片中辨认手錶的细节。当然,当拥有适当的打光器材以及不错的相机,其实要照出模煳的照片反而是更困难的事情,但是不是每一个人都能拥有那样的器材。幸运的是,其实你用智能手机就有可能照出媲美摄影棚品质的相片。笔者在这边就分享一些小技巧,让各位也能用智能手机帮自己的手錶照出漂亮、清晰的照片,并可以自豪地展示给其他人。

目标很简单,就是:帮你的手錶照出不经任何后制(例如使用Photoshop或是其他软件来修图)、直接就可以上传使用的照片。你所需要的就是一台智能手机,当然还有你的錶。

照相最重要的就是光线。笔者甚至可以大胆地说:摄影其实就是对光线的控制。如果你要有一张清晰的照片,你首先要确定的就是你的主体能被足够的光线照到。足够的光不但可以让相机能捕捉到更多细微的细节,也可以减低快门时间(所以减低手震的机率)。有些人会推荐闪光灯,不过那需要一些时间学习才能上手。笔者给业余者的建议是:阳光是你最好的朋友。阳光是一个强烈却不需要额外散光设备的光源,最棒的是,它是免费的。你可以选个晴天,然后开始在不同的时间点试验来找到你要的感觉与结果。请注意,照相的时候最好避免让自己的影子打到你所要摄影的主体上,或是让强光直接反射进你的相机镜头。以个人习惯而言,笔者通常会避免在中午拍照,因为在照俯视图的时候,很难避开自己的影子。



在取得光源之后,第二件要搞定的就是你的智能手机。一般人在拍局部特写最常犯的错误就是照相的时候,把手机靠得主体太近。这当然是可以理解的,因为人们倾向把画面用主体填满,而不是留下大量的空白背景。但是一般智能手机通常都有个最短对焦距离,这距离通常比你想像的来得长。当然你可以靠后制把多余的背景给剪裁掉,但是这已经超出本文所要讨论的范围。



如果你的智能手机有近拍模式(通常是一个小花图示),请开启它。如果没有,也没关系。先将你的手机往后移动,直到你的手机能够正确地将画面正中央的物体对焦(通常会有一个绿色框显示)。一旦对好焦之后,用两只手指在触摸屏上分开(或是用拉近按钮,比如说音量增强钮,如果你手机有的话)来将整个主体拉近。你将会发现你要摄影的主体能在不失焦的情况下被放大。当你对于构图跟对焦都感到满意时,再按下快门键。不同的守机会有不同的设定,但是大致上都一样。你可以尝试使用不同的设定(比如说HDR)来取得更佳的效果。

如果你想尝试用其他软件进行后制的话,请用最大的像素设定来得到更好的后制成果。如果你只是要直接上传图片的话,你可以选择中等的像素设定来得到更快的上传速度。

现在,让我们来总结一下重点。
1. 挑一个晴天。不要把自己的影子盖到主体,或是让光线直接反射进入相机镜头。
2. 不要把智能手机靠得离主体太近。在将画面拉近之前,请先确定相机已经对到焦。
3. 选择适当的输出像素。如果你要直接将图片上传到网路上,尝试透过像素设定来将影像大小控制在1MB左右。
4. Good luck, have fun!

下面的图片都是使用零售价一百五十美元以下的入门级智能手机所拍的。所有的照片都是使用内建的相机功能,并无任何后制(也就是照完自手机直接上传)。


Sony Xperia L C2105





小米 红米 Note 3G




Taking pictures is an easy thing to do as almost everyone has a smartphone with camera capability nowadays. However, I often see blurry pictures when I browse through online forums. Nothing is more frustrating for both the owner and viewers trying to identify a watch with only blurry pictures on hand. Of course, with proper lighting equipment and a decent camera, it would be even more difficult to take a blurry photo, but no everyone has access to those. Fortunately, it is possible to take studio-like pictures of your watches just using a smartphone. I am here to share a few tips so everyone can take nice, clear pictures of watches using just his smartphone and proudly present them to the world.

The goal is very straight forward: to take ready-to-upload pictures of your watches without any post processing (e.g. using Photoshop or other software to enhance the image). All you need is a smartphone and, of course, your watches.

The single most important thing in photography is lighting. I would even go as far as saying photography is all about manipulation of lights. If you want a clear picture, the first thing you want to make sure is that the subject receives sufficient light. Stronger light not only enables the camera to capture more details of the subject, but it also decrease the time needed for the shutter (thus, lower the chances of unsteady hand effect). Some people would recommend an electronic flash unit, but it takes some time to master. For amateurs, I would say natural sun light is your best friend. It is a bright light source that does not require extra diffusing equipment, and the best of all: it is free. You can just pick a sunny day and experiment with different time of the day to get the result and the feel you want. Please note that you might not want to cast your own shadow onto the subject or let the lights reflect directly into the lens. Personally I would avoid noon because of it is difficult to take top pictures without casting my own shadow onto my subject.



Once you got the light, the second thing you want to conquer is your smartphone. The most common mistake people make when using their smartphone to take close-up pictures is that they hold their smartphone too close to the subject. It is understandable because people usually that the subject to fill the whole screen, but not just a small part of the picture. However, most smartphones have a minimum focal distance that is usually longer than you would expect. Of course you can take a large resolution picture and then use other software crop the extra background off, but that is out of the scope of this article.



If your smartphone has macro-mode (usually indicated by a flower icon), use it. If not, do not worry. Just move your smartphone back until your smartphone can focus the subject that is in the middle of the screen (usually indicated by a green square). Once the subject is in focus, try to zoom-in by touch the screen with your two fingers, and then split outward (or a zoom-out button like volume+, if you phone has one). You will see the subject remains in focus while getting larger. Just click on the shutter when you are satisfy with the composition and focus. Different phones have different settings, but it is generally the same. You can just play with different settings (such as HDR) of your phone to get better results.

If you plan to use other software to edit and shrink the pictures afterward, take pictures with the maximum resolution to get better editing results. If you plan to upload the pictures directly, then choose medium sized picture resolution for faster upload.

Now, let's summarize the key elements.
1. Choose a sunny day. Do not cast your own shadow onto the subject or let the lights reflect directly into the lens.
2. Do not place the smartphone too close to the subject. Make sure the subject is in focus before zooming in with the touch screen.
3. Choose the right output format for the pictures. If you plan to upload the picture directly onto the web, try to limit the file size under 1MB each by adjusting the picture resolution.
4. Good luck, have fun!

The follow images are taking by entry level smartphones retailed under USD$150. All images are taken using built-in camera software without any post processing (i.e. uploaded directly from the phone).


Sony Xperia L C2105





Xiaomi RedMi Note 3G



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